You’ve been traveling through Ticino in southern Switzerland, where steep green mountains rise above stone villages, chestnut forests, vineyards, and deep blue lakes. One afternoon, you stop at a small goat dairy tucked into one of the valleys and ask if you can see how the cheese is made.
The farmer is happy to show you around. In the dairy, fresh goat milk is being transformed into cheese, while outside the does and their kids occupy the hillside pasture.
Then you notice something familiar to anyone who has raised dairy goats: there are quite a few little bucklings.
The farmer laughs when you mention it. Dairy goats have to give birth to produce milk, but only a small number of male kids are needed for breeding. That leaves the farmer with the same question goat dairies have faced for generations—what do you do with all those boys?
In Ticino, one traditional answer is capretto.
Kid goat has long been associated with spring and Easter in Switzerland, particularly in regions where goats are raised for milk and cheese. In Ticino, locally raised capretto remains a traditional Easter food, providing a practical culinary use for young animals that are not needed in the dairy herd.
Later, the farmer invites you inside for dinner. In the kitchen, pieces of young goat are seasoned simply with salt and black pepper and browned before going into a roasting pan. There is no complicated spice mixture. Fresh rosemary, butter, and a splash of Marsala are added as the meat roasts.
The smell of rosemary and browned butter soon fills the room.
The finished goat is tender and lightly glazed with its concentrated roasting juices rather than swimming in sauce. Roasted potatoes are served alongside, ready to soak up the buttery drippings. The simplicity is intentional: with young milk-fed kid, the delicate flavor of the meat is supposed to remain the star.
This is Capretto Ticinese—a springtime dish born from both the dairy traditions and the practical realities of raising goats in the Swiss Alps.
Serves 4–6
3 pounds bone-in young kid goat, cut into medium serving-size pieces
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons neutral oil or butter, for browning
4–5 sprigs fresh rosemary
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
½ cup Marsala wine
¼–½ cup water, only if needed
1½ pounds small potatoes, halved
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and black pepper to taste
1 small sprig fresh rosemary
The traditional Ticino Turismo version is strikingly simple: kid goat, salt, pepper, rosemary, butter, and Marsala. Rosemary is the principal herb rather than one ingredient in a large herb mixture.
Young kid is ideal for this recipe.
Because the meat is mild and tender, it does not need the long marinating or heavy seasoning often used for mature goat. Leg, shoulder, ribs, or a mixture of bone-in pieces all work well.
If you are using meat from an older goat, expect it to require considerably more cooking time and possibly additional liquid.
Remove the goat from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before cooking.
Season the pieces generously on all sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
No marinade is necessary.
Heat the oven to 425°F.
Heat the oil or a little butter in a large skillet over medium-high to high heat.
Working in batches, brown the goat pieces well on all sides.
Do not crowd the pan. You want the meat to develop a good browned exterior rather than steam.
As each batch is finished, transfer the goat to a large roasting pan or Dutch oven.
The traditional Ticinese method similarly begins by browning the pieces before moving them into the oven.
Place the uncovered roasting pan in the oven.
Reduce the oven temperature to 375°F.
Roast for about 25–30 minutes, turning the pieces once or twice.
During this stage, the natural juices from the goat should begin concentrating and lightly glazing the bottom of the pan.
Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F.
Scatter the rosemary sprigs among the goat pieces.
Add the butter in small pieces.
Pour the Marsala around the meat.
Loosely cover the roasting pan with aluminum foil or a lid, leaving a small gap rather than sealing it completely.
Continue roasting for about 45–60 minutes.
Turn the goat pieces occasionally and spoon the buttery pan juices over them.
If the Marsala and juices reduce too much before the goat is tender, add a small amount of water.
Do not add too much. Capretto Ticinese should finish with only a small amount of concentrated, glossy sauce rather than becoming a stew. The official Ticino recipe specifically calls for the juices to reduce almost to a glaze.
The goat is ready when the meat is tender and easily pierced with a fork but has not dried out.
For very young kid, total roasting time after browning may be around 75–90 minutes.
Larger pieces may require a little longer.
If serving potatoes, toss them with olive oil, salt, black pepper, and rosemary.
Roast them in a separate pan at about 375°F until golden and tender, approximately 40–50 minutes.
Roasted potatoes are a classic accompaniment to oven-roasted capretto in Swiss Italian cooking; Swiss broadcaster RSI has featured capretto al forno with roasted potatoes as a traditional Easter preparation.
Remove the rosemary stems.
Turn the goat pieces through the remaining pan juices so each piece gets coated with the butter-and-Marsala glaze.
Taste the sauce and adjust the salt or black pepper if necessary.
Let the meat rest for about 10 minutes before serving.
Serve Capretto Ticinese with:
roasted potatoes
creamy or firm polenta
a simple green salad
crusty bread
Spoon the small amount of concentrated rosemary, butter, Marsala, and goat juices over the meat.
The finished dish should be simple and delicate: browned young goat, fresh rosemary, butter, and just enough Marsala to create a lightly sweet, savory glaze without covering the flavor of the meat.