Freekeh bil Lahmeh – Syrian Freekeh with Goat

You’ve been traveling through the countryside of northwestern Syria in late spring, passing rolling fields of wheat, olive groves, and villages scattered across the hills. Outside Taftanaz, thin columns of smoke rise from the fields, and at first you wonder what is burning.

Your guide explains that the farmers are making freekeh.

The wheat is harvested while the kernels are still young and green, then carefully roasted over fire. The flames burn away the dry straw and husks while the moist grain survives inside, taking on the smoky, nutty flavor that makes freekeh so distinctive.

Later, you stop for lunch at a small restaurant in Idlib. The chef notices your interest in the kitchen and waves you behind the counter.

A pot of bone-in meat is simmering with onion, cardamom, cinnamon, bay leaf, black pepper, and salt. The flavorful broth from the meat will become the cooking liquid for the freekeh.

At another stove, the chef warms butter and adds the roasted green wheat. As the freekeh toasts, its smoky aroma becomes even stronger. The meat broth is ladled over the grain, along with a little cumin and allspice, and everything is left to simmer until the freekeh becomes tender but still pleasantly chewy.

Finally, the freekeh is spread across a large platter. Tender pieces of meat are arranged over the top, followed by green peas, toasted almonds, and pine nuts browned in butter.

This is Freekeh bil Lahmeh—literally freekeh with meat. Lamb is the traditional choice in Syria, but for our goat journey we are preparing it with bone-in goat, whose rich broth pairs beautifully with the smoky green wheat.

Freekeh bil Lahmeh

Syrian Freekeh with Goat

Serves 5–6

Ingredients

For the goat and broth:

• 3 pounds bone-in goat meat, cut into large serving-size pieces

• 1 large onion, quartered

• 4 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed

• 1 cinnamon stick

• 2 bay leaves

• 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

• 2 teaspoons salt

• 6 cups water, plus more if needed

For the freekeh:

• 2 cups freekeh

• 2 tablespoons butter or ghee

• 1 small onion, finely chopped

• 1 teaspoon ground allspice

• ½ teaspoon ground cumin

• ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

• ½ teaspoon black pepper

• 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

• 4–5 cups reserved goat broth

• 1 cup green peas

For the garnish:

• ½ cup slivered or blanched almonds

• ¼ cup pine nuts

• 1 tablespoon butter or ghee

Finding Freekeh

Freekeh is green wheat that is harvested before it fully ripens, then roasted, dried, and rubbed to remove the husks.

Look for it at a Middle Eastern or Mediterranean grocery store, usually near the rice, bulgur, lentils, and other grains. Some larger supermarkets and health-food stores also carry it.

Whole freekeh has a firmer, chewier texture and takes longer to cook. Cracked freekeh cooks more quickly. Either will work for this recipe, but whole freekeh gives the finished dish a particularly hearty texture.

Before cooking, sort through the freekeh carefully for any small stones or bits of husk, then rinse it several times under cold water.

Cook the Goat

Place the goat in a large pot.

Add the quartered onion, cardamom, cinnamon stick, bay leaves, peppercorns, salt, and water.

Bring to a boil and skim away any foam that rises to the surface.

Reduce the heat to low, cover, and gently simmer for about 2–3 hours, or until the goat is very tender and beginning to pull away from the bone.

Older goat may need additional time.

Remove the goat pieces and keep them warm.

Strain the broth and discard the onion and whole spices.

Reserve at least 5 cups of the goat broth for cooking the freekeh.

Toast the Freekeh

Melt the butter or ghee in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat.

Add the finely chopped onion and cook for about 5 minutes, until softened.

Add the rinsed and drained freekeh.

Cook for about 3–5 minutes, stirring frequently, so the grains become lightly coated in the butter and their smoky aroma becomes more pronounced.

Add the Spices

Stir in the allspice, cumin, cinnamon, black pepper, and salt.

Cook for about 30 seconds, just until fragrant.

Cook the Freekeh

Pour in 4 cups of the hot reserved goat broth.

Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce the heat to low and cover.

For cracked freekeh, begin checking after about 20–25 minutes.

Whole freekeh may need 35–45 minutes.

Stir occasionally and add more goat broth as necessary. The freekeh should absorb most of the liquid but remain moist and pleasantly chewy rather than becoming dry or mushy.

Add the Peas

When the freekeh is nearly tender, stir in the green peas.

Cover and continue cooking for another 5–10 minutes, until the peas are heated through and the freekeh is tender.

Taste and adjust the salt or black pepper.

Toast the Nuts

Melt 1 tablespoon butter or ghee in a small skillet over medium-low heat.

Add the almonds and pine nuts.

Cook, stirring frequently, until they are lightly golden.

Watch them closely because pine nuts can burn quickly.

Assemble the Dish

Spread the hot freekeh across a large serving platter.

Arrange the tender goat pieces over the grain.

Scatter the green peas, toasted almonds, and pine nuts across the top.

Spoon a little additional hot goat broth over the meat and freekeh if you prefer the dish slightly more moist.

To Serve

Freekeh bil Lahmeh is traditionally served family-style from a large platter.

Serve it with:

• plain yogurt or cucumber-yogurt salad

• a fresh tomato and cucumber salad

• pickled vegetables

• warm flatbread

The smoky freekeh, rich goat broth, warm spices, sweet peas, and buttery toasted nuts make this a hearty dish that needs very little else alongside it.