Seco de Chivo – Ecuadorian Braised Goat

You’ve been traveling along Ecuador’s Santa Elena Peninsula, where the green mountains of the Andes have given way to a much drier landscape. Low scrub and cactus cover the hills, small towns sit between the dusty countryside and the Pacific, and every so often you pass goats browsing along the roadside.

By lunchtime, you stop in a small town and follow the smell of something simmering into a family-run restaurant. The cook notices your curiosity and invites you into the kitchen.

On the counter is a bowl of bone-in goat that has been marinating with garlic, cumin, oregano, salt, and chicha—a traditional fermented corn drink. The cook lifts the pieces from the marinade and browns them in a heavy pot stained orange-red from achiote.

Onions and peppers go in next. Then tomatoes, cilantro, a hot chile, and naranjilla are blended together with more chicha and poured over the goat. Naranjilla is a tart Andean fruit with a bright, citrusy flavor that gives the stew much of its distinctive character. A little panela—unrefined cane sugar—is added to balance the acidity.

The pot is covered and left to simmer slowly. Over the next few hours, the goat becomes fork-tender while the fruit, vegetables, spices, and cooking juices reduce into a thick, deeply flavored sauce.

This is seco de chivo, one of Ecuador’s classic goat dishes and a specialty of the coastal Santa Elena region. When your plate arrives, the goat is served beside yellow achiote rice, sweet fried plantains, and slices of avocado—the rich stew balanced by sweet, creamy, and savory flavors.

Seco de Chivo

Ecuadorian Braised Goat

Serves 5–6

Ingredients

• 3 pounds bone-in goat meat, cut into serving-size pieces

• 8 cloves garlic, crushed or minced

• 1½ teaspoons ground cumin

• 1½ teaspoons dried oregano

• 1½ teaspoons salt, plus more to taste

• 3 cups chicha de jora, divided

• 3 tablespoons neutral cooking oil

• 1 tablespoon ground achiote or annatto paste

• 1 large red onion, finely chopped

• 1 large red or green bell pepper, finely chopped

• 4 medium tomatoes, quartered

• 1 serrano or red jalapeño pepper

• ¾ cup fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems

• ¾ cup naranjilla or lulo juice

• 3 tablespoons grated panela or piloncillo

• 1½ teaspoons ground allspice

• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, for finishing

About the Chicha

Chicha de jora is a traditional fermented corn drink used in Ecuadorian and Andean cooking.

If you cannot find it, replace it with a mild lager. Beer has become a common modern alternative in Ecuador and works very well with goat.

Look for bottled chicha de jora at a Latin American grocery store, particularly one that carries Ecuadorian or Peruvian foods.

About the Naranjilla

Naranjilla, also called lulo, is a tart Andean fruit commonly used in Ecuador. The pulp has a bright, acidic tropical flavor that helps balance the richness of the goat.

Frozen naranjilla or lulo pulp is often available at Latin American grocery stores.

If you cannot find it, substitute:

• ½ cup orange juice

• ¼ cup lime or lemon juice

Passion fruit or diluted tamarind can also be used for a different but similarly tart result.

Marinate the Goat

Place the goat in a large bowl.

Add the garlic, cumin, oregano, salt, and 1½ cups of the chicha.

Mix thoroughly so all of the goat is coated.

Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. For deeper flavor, marinate for several hours or overnight.

Brown the Goat

Remove the goat from the marinade, but do not discard the marinade.

Heat the oil in a large heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat.

Add the achiote and stir it into the oil.

Working in batches if necessary, add the goat pieces and brown them on several sides.

Return all of the meat to the pot.

Add the Onion and Pepper

Reduce the heat to medium.

Add the chopped red onion and bell pepper around the goat.

Cook for about 5–7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion begins to soften.

Make the Naranjilla Sauce

Place the tomatoes, serrano or jalapeño, cilantro, naranjilla juice, and remaining 1½ cups of chicha in a blender.

Blend until smooth.

For a smoother finished sauce, pour the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer.

Slow-Cook the Goat

Pour the blended naranjilla mixture over the goat.

Add the reserved marinade, panela, and allspice.

Stir everything together and bring the pot to a gentle boil.

Reduce the heat to low, cover or partially cover, and simmer for about 2½–3 hours, or until the goat is very tender and easily pulls away from the bone.

Stir occasionally and add a small amount of water if the sauce becomes too thick before the goat is tender.

Older goat may require additional cooking time.

Reduce the Sauce

Once the goat is tender, remove the lid.

Simmer gently until the sauce becomes thick and concentrated enough to coat the meat.

Taste and adjust the salt.

Stir in the chopped fresh cilantro just before serving.

Slow Cooker Option

Marinate and brown the goat as directed.

Transfer the browned goat, softened onion and pepper, blended naranjilla mixture, reserved marinade, panela, and allspice to a slow cooker.

Cook on low for about 7–9 hours, or until the goat is very tender.

If the sauce is too thin at the end, transfer it to a wide saucepan and simmer uncovered until reduced.

To Serve

Traditionally, seco de chivo is served with:

• arroz amarillo, white rice colored and flavored with a little achiote

• fried ripe plantains

• sliced avocado

Spoon plenty of the thick naranjilla-and-goat sauce over the rice when serving.