You’ve spent the morning driving through the rolling green hills of KwaZulu-Natal, where cattle and goats graze between scattered homesteads and the distant mountains rise through the afternoon haze. By the time you reach the small guesthouse where you’re staying, music is carrying across the yard and several generations of the host family have gathered for a Saturday afternoon meal.
Someone has a rugby match playing on the radio. A fire is burning outside, children weave between the adults, and in the kitchen a large pot of goat has been simmering since morning.
Your host lifts the lid and invites you to look.
Chunks of bone-in goat are cooking slowly with onion, garlic, tomatoes, black pepper, and a little curry powder. The curry is mild—not enough to turn the dish into a curry, but enough to give the gravy warmth and depth. The goat has cooked for hours, gradually becoming tender while the onions and tomatoes disappear into the sauce.
Beside it, another pot contains pap, the maize-meal staple found on tables throughout South Africa. The cook works the thickening maize meal with a sturdy wooden spoon until it becomes smooth, firm, and heavy enough to hold its shape.
Goat has an important place in the food and cultural traditions of KwaZulu-Natal, particularly among Zulu families, where goats are raised for meat and also play important roles at family and traditional ceremonies. Pap is an equally familiar companion to meat dishes throughout South Africa; in KwaZulu-Natal, maize meal may also be prepared as the drier, crumbly uphuthu.
When everyone is ready to eat, a generous scoop of pap goes onto your plate, followed by tender goat and enough of the rich onion-and-tomato gravy to soak into the maize meal. There is no elaborate presentation—just a big pot, a full plate, family gathered around, and one of South Africa’s most comforting combinations: inyama yembuzi and pap.
Serves 5–6
3 pounds bone-in goat meat, cut into serving-size pieces
2 tablespoons vegetable or sunflower oil
2 large onions, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
3 medium tomatoes, chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon mild curry powder
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon ground cumin
1½–2 teaspoons salt, to taste
2 cups goat stock, beef stock, or water, plus more as needed
2 medium potatoes, cut into large chunks, optional
2 carrots, cut into thick pieces, optional
There is no single recipe for inyama yembuzi. The name simply means goat meat in isiZulu, and preparations vary from household to household.
Some traditional preparations are extremely simple, allowing the flavor of the goat to dominate with little more than salt and slow cooking. Goat eaten in traditional or ceremonial contexts may be much more simply seasoned than the tomato-based stew below. South African goat eaters interviewed by Food For Mzansi have specifically described preferring goat cooked with only salt.
This recipe is a home-style South African stew version, using onion, tomato, garlic, and a modest amount of spice. Curry spices have also become deeply integrated into the cooking of KwaZulu-Natal through the province’s Indian culinary influence.
Heat the oil in a large heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat.
Season the goat with salt and black pepper.
Working in batches if necessary, add the goat and brown it for about 8–10 minutes, turning the pieces so they develop color on several sides.
Remove the goat and set it aside.
Reduce the heat to medium.
Add the chopped onions to the same pot and cook for about 5–7 minutes, until softened and beginning to brown.
Add the garlic and cook for another minute.
Stir in the tomatoes and tomato paste.
Add the curry powder, paprika, and cumin.
Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes begin breaking down and the spices become fragrant.
The curry powder should remain in the background. This should taste like a rich goat stew rather than a strongly curried dish.
Return the browned goat to the pot.
Pour in about 2 cups of stock or water and stir everything together.
Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce the heat to low and cover.
Simmer for about 2–3 hours, or until the goat is very tender and easily pulls away from the bone.
Check the pot occasionally and add a little hot water or stock if it becomes too dry.
Young goat may become tender sooner, while mature goat may require additional time.
If using potatoes and carrots, add them when the goat is about 30–40 minutes away from being tender.
Continue cooking until the vegetables are soft but still hold their shape.
Once the goat is tender, remove the lid.
Simmer gently for another 15–20 minutes, allowing the cooking liquid to reduce into a rich onion-and-tomato gravy.
Taste and adjust the salt and black pepper.
The finished stew should have enough gravy to spoon generously over the pap.
2 cups white maize meal
About 4 cups water, divided
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter, optional
Look for white maize meal at a South African or African grocery store. Products may be labeled maize meal, mielie meal, or mealie meal.
American cornmeal can work in a pinch, but the texture will be somewhat different.
Bring about 3 cups of the water and the salt to a boil in a heavy saucepan.
Reduce the heat to low.
Slowly sprinkle about 1 cup of maize meal into the water while whisking or stirring continuously to prevent lumps.
Cover and simmer gently for about 10 minutes.
Gradually add the remaining maize meal, stirring vigorously with a sturdy wooden spoon.
The mixture will become quite thick.
Continue cooking over low heat for another 20–30 minutes, stirring occasionally and adding a small amount of hot water if necessary.
The finished pap should be thick, smooth, and firm enough to hold its shape on the plate.
Stir in the butter, if using.
Spoon a generous portion of hot pap onto each plate.
Place several pieces of tender goat alongside it and spoon plenty of the onion-and-tomato gravy over the meat and partly over the pap.
You can also serve it with:
sautéed cabbage
spinach or other cooked greens
chakalaka, a spicy South African vegetable relish
pumpkin or butternut squash
Traditionally, firm pap can be eaten with the hands: pinch off a small piece, shape it with your fingers, and use it to scoop up some of the goat and gravy. The combination of mild maize meal and intensely flavored slow-cooked meat is a foundation of many South African meals.