You’ve been traveling through northern Luzon, riding out from Laoag along roads bordered by rice fields, tobacco farms, coconut palms, and small villages of concrete houses mixed with older homes built in the traditional Ilocano style.
As you approach one village, colorful banderitas—small triangular festival flags—are strung across the road. Music is playing somewhere near the plaza, children are running between houses, and almost every doorway seems to have relatives arriving with trays, pots, and coolers.
You’ve happened upon a town fiesta.
Near one house, several men are gathered around an enormous metal kaldero set over a gas burner. Someone is singing karaoke badly enough to make everyone laugh, bottles of beer are being passed around, and the smell coming from the pot makes it impossible not to wander closer.
The cook lifts the lid.
Inside, pieces of goat are slowly simmering in a deep red tomato sauce. Earlier, the meat was marinated with vinegar, garlic, salt, and black pepper, then browned with onions and more garlic. Tomato sauce and broth were added, and the goat has been cooking slowly until tender.
But what makes this different from an ordinary tomato stew comes next.
The cook stirs liver spread into the sauce, giving it a rich, savory depth and a creamy texture. Potatoes and carrots go into the pot, followed near the end by bell peppers, green peas, olives, and hot chile.
This is Kalderetang Kambing, one of the Philippines’ classic goat dishes. Goat kaldereta is especially associated with the provinces of central and northern Luzon and is commonly prepared for fiestas, birthdays, weddings, and other celebrations. The dish reflects Spanish influence—the name kaldereta is connected to the Spanish caldera, or cooking cauldron—but Filipino cooks transformed it into something distinctly their own with ingredients such as liver spread, local chiles, and the combination of meat and vegetables in a rich tomato gravy.
By the time the goat is tender, long tables have been set outside the house.
Your plate arrives piled with steaming white rice and a generous spoonful of kalderetang kambing. The goat nearly pulls from the bone, the potatoes have absorbed the sauce, and the liver has turned the tomato gravy unusually rich and savory.
Someone hands you a cold beer.
The karaoke starts again.
Apparently, you’re staying for the fiesta.
Serves 5–6
For the Goat
3 pounds bone-in goat meat, cut into medium serving-size pieces
⅓ cup cane vinegar or white vinegar
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
For the Stew
3 tablespoons neutral cooking oil
1 large onion, chopped
5 cloves garlic, minced
3 medium tomatoes, chopped
1½ cups tomato sauce
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 bay leaves
2–3 cups goat stock, beef stock, or water, as needed
½ cup liver spread or smooth liver pâté
2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks
1 large carrot, cut into thick pieces
1 red bell pepper, cut into chunks
1 green bell pepper, cut into chunks
¾ cup green peas
⅓ cup pitted green olives
1–2 hot red or green chiles, sliced or left whole
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
salt to taste
1 tablespoon peanut butter
Some Filipino families add peanut butter to kaldereta to make the sauce richer and slightly thicker. Others leave it out and rely entirely on the liver spread. Either version is traditional to Filipino home cooking.
Place the goat in a large bowl.
Add the vinegar, crushed garlic, salt, and black pepper.
Mix thoroughly so the meat is coated.
Cover and refrigerate for about 1 hour.
Do not leave the goat in a strong vinegar marinade for too long, since prolonged exposure to the acid can begin affecting the texture of the meat.
Drain the goat and discard the marinade.
Pat the pieces relatively dry before cooking.
Heat the oil in a large heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat.
Working in batches if necessary, add the goat.
Brown the pieces for about 8–10 minutes, turning occasionally.
The goat does not need a dark crust, but developing some color will add flavor to the finished stew.
Remove the goat and set it aside.
Reduce the heat to medium.
Add the chopped onion to the same pot.
Cook for about 5 minutes, until softened.
Add the garlic and cook for another minute.
Add the chopped tomatoes.
Cook for about 5–7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes soften and begin breaking down.
Stir in the tomato paste and cook for another minute.
Return the browned goat to the pot.
Add the tomato sauce, bay leaves, black pepper, and about 2 cups of stock or water.
Stir everything together.
Bring to a gentle boil.
Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for approximately 2–3 hours, or until the goat is becoming tender.
Check the pot occasionally and add additional hot stock or water if necessary.
Young goat may become tender sooner, while mature goat may need considerably longer.
When the goat is almost tender, place the liver spread in a small bowl.
Add about ½ cup of the hot cooking liquid and stir until smooth.
Pour the mixture back into the pot.
If using peanut butter, stir it in at this point as well.
Mix thoroughly.
The liver spread should disappear into the tomato sauce rather than remain in visible pieces.
Simmer for about 10 minutes.
The sauce will become noticeably richer, thicker, and more savory.
Add the potatoes and carrots.
Cover and simmer for about 15–20 minutes, or until they are nearly tender.
Try not to overcook the potatoes, since they should hold their shape in the finished stew.
Add the red and green bell peppers, green peas, olives, and chile.
Cook uncovered for another 5–10 minutes.
The bell peppers should soften but still retain some texture.
If you prefer a spicier kaldereta, slice the chiles before adding them.
For gentler heat, leave them whole.
Remove the lid.
Simmer gently until the sauce becomes thick enough to coat the goat and vegetables.
Kalderetang Kambing should have plenty of rich sauce for spooning over rice, but it should not be watery.
Taste and adjust the salt and black pepper.
Remove the bay leaves before serving.
Marinate and brown the goat as directed.
Prepare the onion, garlic, and tomato base.
Add the goat, tomato sauce, bay leaves, and about 1½ cups stock.
Pressure-cook until the goat is tender, generally about 30–40 minutes at high pressure, depending on the age and size of the pieces.
Allow the pressure to release.
Return the pot to sauté mode or the stovetop.
Add the liver spread and then finish with the potatoes, carrots, peppers, peas, and olives as directed.
Do not pressure-cook the vegetables with the goat or they may become mushy.
Brown the goat and prepare the onion, garlic, and tomato mixture on the stovetop first.
Transfer everything to the slow cooker.
Add the tomato sauce, bay leaves, and about 1½ cups stock.
Cook on low for approximately 7–9 hours, or until the goat is very tender.
During the final hour, stir in the liver spread, potatoes, and carrots.
Add the bell peppers, peas, olives, and chile during the final 20–30 minutes.
If the finished sauce is too thin, transfer it to a wide pot and simmer uncovered until reduced.
Serve Kalderetang Kambing with plenty of:
steamed white rice
sliced fresh chiles, if desired
a simple cucumber or tomato salad
At a Filipino fiesta, kalderetang kambing may be one dish among a large spread of food.
It is also popular as pulutan—rich, strongly flavored food eaten while drinking beer or other alcoholic beverages.
The finished stew should have tender goat surrounded by a thick, deep-red sauce that tastes of tomato, garlic, chile, and the distinctive savory richness of liver spread. Potatoes and carrots make it hearty, while bell peppers, peas, and olives give the stew the colorful appearance associated with Filipino kaldereta.