You’ve left the bustle of Marrakech behind and are traveling deeper into Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains. In Asni, you wander through the crowded weekly market, passing stalls piled with red onions, carrots, green beans, herbs, spices, and fruit. Beyond town, the road begins climbing into the mountains, winding through the Ouirgane Valley past olive groves, rocky slopes, goat shelters, and small villages clinging to the hillsides.
Later that afternoon, you arrive at a family guesthouse in a mountain village. Your host invites you into the kitchen, where a conical clay tagine is already warming over a low fire.
At the bottom of the tagine, chopped red onion and garlic are mixed with olive oil, fresh cilantro and parsley, paprika, turmeric, and salt. As the mixture begins to sizzle, pieces of goat are arranged over the aromatic base.
Then comes the part that makes a tagine almost look like architecture. Carrots, potatoes, green beans, green pepper, and chunks of squash or gourd are carefully layered over the goat before the tall conical lid is placed on top.
For the next few hours, very little happens—or at least it looks that way. Steam rises inside the cone, condenses against the clay, and falls back over the meat and vegetables. The goat slowly becomes tender while its juices mingle with the olive oil, vegetables, herbs, and spices beneath it.
When the lid is finally lifted, a cloud of fragrant steam fills the kitchen. The goat is tender, the vegetables have absorbed the cooking juices, and a rich sauce has collected at the bottom of the tagine.
The dish is placed in the center of the table with fresh Moroccan bread and a simple tomato-and-onion salad. Everyone tears off pieces of bread and reaches toward the tagine to scoop up the vegetables, goat, and sauce.
Serves 5–6
3 pounds bone-in goat meat, cut into medium serving-size pieces
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large red onion, chopped
5 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1½–2 teaspoons salt, to taste
½ teaspoon black pepper
1 cup water
3 medium carrots, peeled and cut lengthwise
2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into large wedges
1½ cups green beans, trimmed
1 green bell pepper, cut into strips
2 cups bottle gourd, zucchini, or winter squash, cut into large chunks
2 medium tomatoes, sliced, optional
Seasonal vegetables are part of the tradition, so there is no need to use exactly the same combination every time.
Place the olive oil, onion, garlic, cilantro, parsley, paprika, turmeric, cumin, salt, and black pepper in the bottom of a large tagine.
Mix everything together.
Place the tagine over low to medium-low heat. If you are using a clay tagine on a modern electric or gas stove, use a heat diffuser unless the manufacturer specifically says the tagine can be placed directly over the burner.
Cook the onion mixture gently for about 5 minutes, just until it begins to soften and become fragrant.
Arrange the goat pieces over the onion-and-herb mixture.
Turn the pieces once or twice so they become coated with the seasoned olive oil.
There is no need to deeply brown the goat.
Add about 1 cup of water around the meat.
Arrange the vegetables over the goat rather than stirring everything together.
Place the firmer vegetables such as carrots and potatoes closest to the meat.
Arrange the green beans, green pepper, squash or gourd, and tomatoes over the top.
Try to form a mound toward the center so the conical lid fits comfortably over everything.
Cover with the tagine lid and bring the liquid to a very gentle simmer.
Reduce the heat to low.
Cook slowly for about 2½–3 hours, or until the goat is very tender and easily pulls away from the bone.
Avoid repeatedly lifting the lid. The tagine works by trapping and circulating steam.
Check occasionally near the end of cooking. If the bottom becomes dry before the goat is tender, add a small amount of hot water around the edge of the tagine.
Once the goat is tender, remove the lid.
If there is more liquid than you want, simmer uncovered for about 10–15 minutes to concentrate the sauce.
Taste the cooking juices and adjust the salt if necessary.
The finished tagine should have tender goat and vegetables sitting over a relatively small amount of intensely flavored sauce rather than swimming in broth.
You can recreate the same dish very successfully in a Dutch oven or heavy covered casserole.
Heat the oven to 325°F.
Prepare the onion, garlic, herbs, olive oil, and spices in the Dutch oven on the stovetop.
Add the goat and cook for a few minutes without deeply browning it.
Pour in 1 cup of water.
Layer the carrots, potatoes, green beans, green pepper, squash, and tomatoes over the meat.
Cover tightly with the lid and transfer the pot to the oven.
Bake for about 2½–3 hours, or until the goat is very tender.
Because a Dutch oven does not circulate condensed steam exactly like a conical tagine, check the pot after about 2 hours. Add a small splash of hot water if it is becoming dry.
Once the goat is tender, remove the lid and return the pot to the oven for another 15–20 minutes if the sauce needs to reduce.
Prepare the onion, garlic, herbs, spices, and olive oil in a skillet first.
Transfer the mixture to the slow cooker and arrange the goat over it.
Add only about ½ cup water because a slow cooker retains more moisture.
Layer the vegetables over the goat.
Cook on low for about 7–9 hours, or until the goat is very tender.
If there is too much liquid at the end, transfer the cooking juices to a saucepan and simmer until concentrated.
Place the tagine or serving dish in the center of the table and serve with:
warm Moroccan khobz or another crusty flatbread
a simple tomato-and-onion salad
Moroccan mint tea, if desired
Traditionally, the bread is used to scoop up pieces of goat, vegetables, and the flavorful sauce from the bottom of the tagine.