You’ve been traveling through Jamaica’s lush green hills, following a winding road past small villages, roadside fruit stands, and brightly painted houses tucked into the tropical landscape. By lunchtime, the windows are down and the warm air carries the unmistakable smell of curry, thyme, and slowly cooking meat from a little roadside cookshop.
You stop and step inside. The cook notices you looking toward the kitchen and waves you over to see what is simmering in a heavy pot. Pieces of bone-in goat have been marinated with Jamaican curry powder, scallions, garlic, ginger, thyme, pimento, black pepper, and Scotch bonnet. Another spoonful of curry powder is briefly heated in oil before the seasoned goat is added, filling the kitchen with the smell of toasted spices.
Water is added and the pot is left to simmer slowly until the goat becomes tender. Near the end, chunks of potato go into the curry, where they soften and help thicken the cooking liquid into a rich gravy. The Scotch bonnet brings heat and fruitiness, while thyme, scallion, ginger, garlic, and pimento give the dish its distinctly Jamaican character.
Curry goat also tells part of Jamaica’s history. Curry spices became part of the island’s food culture through Indian influence during the 1800s, then generations of Jamaican cooks transformed the dish with local ingredients and cooking traditions. When your plate arrives with rice and peas beside the tender curry-covered goat, it feels like exactly the meal you hoped to find on the road through Jamaica
Serves 5–6
3 pounds bone-in goat meat, cut into 1½–2 inch pieces
3 tablespoons Jamaican curry powder, divided
1 medium onion, chopped
3 scallions, chopped
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated or finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, or 4–5 fresh thyme sprigs
6–8 whole allspice berries, lightly crushed
1 Scotch bonnet pepper
1½ teaspoons black pepper
1½–2 teaspoons salt, to taste
2–3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3–4 cups water, as needed
1 large potato, peeled and cut into chunks
1 medium carrot, sliced, optional
Place the goat in a large bowl. Add 2 tablespoons of the curry powder, onion, scallions, garlic, ginger, thyme, allspice, black pepper, and salt.
For moderate heat, finely chop about half of the Scotch bonnet and mix it into the goat. For a milder curry, leave the pepper whole and add it during cooking instead.
Massage the seasonings thoroughly into the meat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight.
Heat the oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of curry powder and stir for about 30–60 seconds, until fragrant and slightly darker. In Jamaican cooking this is often called “burning the curry,” although the curry should not actually be allowed to scorch.
Add the marinated goat and all of the onions and seasonings from the bowl.
Cook for about 8–10 minutes, turning the pieces occasionally, until the meat begins to brown and some of the released liquid cooks away.
Add about 3 cups of water, or enough to nearly cover the meat.
Bring to a gentle boil, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for about 2–2½ hours, or until the goat is becoming tender. Add a little more hot water during cooking if necessary.
Older goat may take longer, so cook until the meat is tender rather than relying strictly on the time.
When the goat is nearly tender, add the potato and carrot, if using.
Add the remaining Scotch bonnet pepper whole if you did not chop it into the marinade.
Continue cooking for another 20–30 minutes, partially uncovered, until the potatoes are tender and the goat easily pulls away from the bone.
Avoid breaking the whole Scotch bonnet unless you want considerably more heat.
Simmer uncovered until the cooking liquid reduces into a thick curry gravy that coats the meat. Some of the potato will naturally break down and help thicken the sauce.
Taste and adjust the salt and black pepper.
Remove the whole Scotch bonnet and any woody thyme stems before serving.
Serve Jamaican curry goat with rice and peas or steamed white rice. Fried plantains, steamed cabbage, or a fresh vegetable salad also make good accompaniments.