Cari de Cabri aux Pommes de Terre

Réunion Island Goat & Potato Cari

You’ve spent the morning following Réunion’s coastal road, with the Indian Ocean on one side and stretches of dark volcanic rock along the shore.

Réunion’s food tells much of the island’s history. French cooking traditions mixed over generations with those brought from Madagascar, Africa, India, Mauritius, and China, creating a Creole cuisine found nowhere else. The cari became one of its signature dishes—a simple method of slowly cooking meat or fish with aromatics, tomato, and spices.

At lunchtime, you stop at a small family-run restaurant and order cari cabri. When you ask what goes into it, the chef smiles and waves you toward the kitchen.

“Come see.”

The chef has already browned large pieces of bone-in goat. He adds onion, garlic, tomato, fresh thyme, salt, and black pepper, then enough water for the meat to slowly simmer.

“Now you wait.”

Later, potatoes are browned separately and dusted with turmeric before joining the goat for the final half hour.

By the time your plate arrives, the goat is tender, the tomatoes have disappeared into the sauce, and the golden potatoes have absorbed the flavors of thyme, garlic, and meat. A little chile rougail sits alongside.

Beyond the restaurant, waves break against the dark volcanic shoreline.

You spent much of the afternoon waiting for lunch.

It turns out that was part of the meal.

Cari de Cabri aux Pommes de Terre

Réunion-Style Goat Cari with Potatoes

Serves 5–6

Ingredients

• 3 pounds bone-in goat meat, cut into large pieces

• 2½ pounds potatoes

• 1 large onion, about 6 ounces, sliced lengthwise

• 5–6 cloves garlic, crushed

• 2 medium ripe tomatoes, about 7 ounces total, chopped

• 5–6 sprigs fresh thyme

• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for the potatoes

• 1½–2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

• ½ teaspoon ground turmeric

• 3–4 tablespoons neutral cooking oil, plus more if needed

• 3–4 cups water, or enough to nearly reach the top of the meat

Prepare the Ingredients

Cut the goat into fairly large bone-in pieces.

Peel the potatoes. If they are large, cut them in half or into large chunks. Keep smaller potatoes whole.

Slice the onion lengthwise.

Crush or finely chop the garlic.

Cut the tomatoes into small pieces.

Brown the Goat

Heat about 2 tablespoons oil in a large heavy pot, Dutch oven, or deep wok over medium-high heat.

Working in batches if necessary, brown the pieces of goat well on several sides.

Do not overcrowd the pot.

Remove the browned goat and set it aside.

Brown the Aromatics

Add a little more oil if necessary.

Add the sliced onion and cook until softened and beginning to turn golden.

Add the garlic and cook for another minute or two.

Remove the onion and garlic and set them aside.

Build the Cari

Return the goat to the pot.

Season with the salt and black pepper.

Add the thyme, browned garlic, browned onions, and chopped tomatoes.

Cook everything together for about 2–3 minutes, stirring gently, until the tomatoes begin releasing their juices.

Slowly Cook the Goat

Pour in enough water to come approximately level with the meat.

Bring to a gentle boil.

Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 2 hours.

Check occasionally and stir gently. Add a little hot water if the pot begins drying out before the goat becomes tender.

Older goat may need additional cooking time.

Brown the Potatoes

About 30–40 minutes before the goat is finished, heat a little oil in a separate skillet.

Add the potatoes and brown them lightly on several sides.

Season with a little salt, black pepper, and turmeric.

They do not need to cook through at this stage.

Add the Potatoes

When the goat is becoming tender, add the browned potatoes to the pot.

Gently turn them through the sauce.

Cover and continue simmering for approximately 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender and the goat pulls easily from the bone.

Finish the Cari

Remove the lid.

If there is too much liquid, simmer uncovered for 10–15 minutes until the sauce reduces and begins clinging to the meat and potatoes.

Taste and adjust the salt and pepper.

Remove the woody thyme stems before serving.

The finished cari should have tender bone-in goat, soft golden potatoes, and a savory sauce flavored with tomato, onion, garlic, thyme, black pepper, and turmeric.

Pressure Cooker Option

Brown the goat, onion, and garlic as directed.

Return everything to the pressure cooker with the tomatoes, thyme, salt, pepper, and about 2 cups water.

Cook at high pressure for approximately 35–40 minutes, followed by a natural pressure release.

Meanwhile, lightly brown the potatoes and season them with salt, pepper, and turmeric.

Open the cooker and add the potatoes.

Simmer uncovered for approximately 25–30 minutes, until the potatoes are tender and the sauce has reduced.

To Serve

Serve the cari hot with plenty of the golden potatoes cooked in the sauce.

Add a spoonful of spicy tomato or chile rougail on the side if desired.

The potatoes soak up the savory cooking juices while the goat becomes tender enough to pull easily from the bone.