You’ve spent the morning hiking through the Beskydy Mountains in eastern Czechia, following a trail over green ridges and through forests overlooking the valleys below. Wooden cottages appear between the hills, reminders of the old Wallachian mountain culture that still survives in this part of the country. The Beskydy and neighboring Wallachia are particularly known for their mountain pastures, traditional wooden farm buildings, and shepherding heritage.
As you descend toward a small village, dark clouds begin gathering over the mountains. Rather than risk getting caught in the rain, you turn down a farm lane toward an old wooden farmhouse and barn.
The farmer notices you approaching and invites you under the porch just as the first drops begin to fall.
Several goats are watching from behind a wooden fence, and a few spring kids bounce around the barnyard. Inside the farmhouse, however, your attention quickly shifts from the rain to the smell coming from the kitchen.
The family is preparing kůzlečí pečeně s bramborami—roast kid with potatoes.
The cook shows you a young goat shoulder that has been pierced with thin slivers of garlic and little pieces of rosemary. It has been resting in melted butter and white wine for several hours. Nearby, small potatoes are being briefly boiled before they are added to the roasting pan with a spoonful of lard.
The goat is nestled among the potatoes, the buttery wine marinade is poured over everything, and the pan goes into the oven. As it roasts, the meat is repeatedly basted with the juices collecting underneath.
By the time the rain stops, the potatoes are golden, the garlic and rosemary have perfumed the meat, and the young goat has browned around the edges.
Roasted kid was traditionally considered a special spring and Sunday meal in Czech households, particularly around Easter. This simple preparation lets the mild flavor of the young goat remain at the center of the dish, surrounded by potatoes that have roasted in its buttery juices.
Your hike through the Beskydy can wait a little longer.
There is still a place at the farmhouse table.
Czech Roast Kid with Potatoes
Serves 5–6
3 pounds bone-in young goat, preferably shoulder, leg, or large roasting pieces
2 pounds small potatoes
4 tablespoons butter
½ cup dry white wine
3 cloves garlic, cut into thin slivers
2–3 sprigs fresh rosemary
3 tablespoons lard
2 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
The traditional Czech preparation uses kid leg or shoulder with butter, white wine, garlic, rosemary, small potatoes, and lard.
Using the tip of a thin, sharp knife, make small openings throughout the goat meat.
Insert a sliver of garlic and a small piece of rosemary into each opening.
Season the goat on all sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Melt the butter and mix it with the white wine.
Place the goat in a large bowl or roasting dish and pour the butter-and-wine mixture over it.
Turn the meat several times so it is thoroughly coated.
Cover and refrigerate for about 4 hours or overnight, turning the meat occasionally.
Remove the goat from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before roasting.
Heat the oven to 350°F.
Scrub the potatoes well. Small potatoes can be left whole; larger ones can be halved.
Place them in boiling salted water and parboil for about 10 minutes.
Drain thoroughly.
Melt the lard in the roasting pan and toss the potatoes in it until lightly coated.
Season with a little salt and black pepper.
Nestle the marinated goat among the potatoes.
Pour all of the butter-and-white-wine marinade over the meat and potatoes.
Tuck the remaining rosemary sprigs around the goat.
Place the roasting pan in the 350°F oven.
Roast for about 1–1½ hours, depending on the size and age of the goat.
Every 20 minutes or so, spoon the buttery pan juices over the goat and turn the potatoes so they brown evenly.
If the pan begins to dry out, add a small splash of water or white wine.
If the goat browns too quickly before becoming tender, loosely cover it with aluminum foil.
The traditional Czech recipe roasts the kid and potatoes together while repeatedly basting the meat with its cooking juices.
During the final 15–20 minutes, leave the roasting pan uncovered.
Allow the goat to develop a golden-brown exterior and the potatoes to become crisp around the edges.
Spoon the pan juices over the meat once more before removing it from the oven.
Transfer the goat to a platter and let it rest for about 10–15 minutes.
Meanwhile, turn the potatoes through the remaining garlic, butter, wine, and goat juices in the roasting pan.
Taste and add a little more salt or black pepper if needed.
Arrange the roasted kid on a large platter surrounded by the golden potatoes.
Spoon the buttery garlic-and-rosemary pan juices over the meat.
Serve with:
the roasted potatoes
pickled or cooked red beets
braised cabbage or seasonal vegetables
rye or country bread
A Czech home-style roast-kid preparation is also commonly served with boiled potatoes and pickled red beet, so either roasted or boiled potatoes would fit the meal well.